Plastic Bag Holder Tutorial
A friend of mine asked if I could make her a plastic bag holder. Of course, I accepted! I looked online for a tutorial or something. But none of them fit what I wa fake rolex nted it to look like. Most of them were just tubes with elastic at the top and bottom. Very basic. I usually like basic, but I thought it needed a little extra oomph! So, I did what I do. I sat down with my graph paper and sketched out a plan. This is another fat quarter project! Yay! (Fat quarters are 18 x 22 pieces of fabric, sold at fabric stores that sell quilting fabric.)
I use reusable bags, but always end up with plastic grocery bags anyway! You could also use this bag to store other things. (I stuffed on with fabric scraps!) And, as always, if you want one of these, but don have the skills, time, or desire to make i fake rolex t yourself you can always contact me! (Check out Moose and Wormy on Etsy!)
To make a plastic bag holder, you need one fat quarter, a 4 strip of a contrasting fabric, 2 small (4 or so) pieces of elastic, and one small piece of ribbon (6 or so). (You can also make a fabric to hang the bag by. It is up to you!)
Measure your fat quarter. It should be about 18 x 22 but sometimes they are slightly larger. You want to cut your 4 strip of contrast fabric so yo fake rolex u have two 4 strips to go across each 18 side. If your fat quarter is 19 then cut your strips 19 to fit.
With the right sides toge fake rolex ther, sew the contrast strip to the main fabric along the 18 edge. Repeat for the other side.
I serge all my edges, since I am usually selling what I make. If you got a serger, go ahead and finish those edges. If you don have a serger, you can omit the finishing if you want, or you can pink or zig zag the edge. Since this is not a wearable object, or an object that will get much washing (if any) it isn necessary to finish the edges at all. So, don feel bad if you choose to skip that step!
Pin your ribbon loop (or fabric loop) a couple inches from the top of the main fabric along the 22 side. (Which is not a 30 side, since you just attached two 4 strips to the ends!) If you put your loop too high, you be fighting it while you sew the elastic casing or it will end up on the ruffle. So, try to put it low enough it will be out of the way, but still at the top of the bag. (You can turn the top ruffle down and see where it will hit if that helps you. I just eyeball it and hope for the best!)
Fold your fabric in half long ways (with your contrast fabric on the top and bottom) and sew with right sides together. Serge or finish the edge as you did with the other seam!
Serge the top and bottom edge of your contrast fabric (you can see above that the edge of the pink fabric is serged). If you want to skip that step, go right ahead!
Now, press the contrast edge in. (See above!) You want to leave about 1/2 or so of your contrast fabric showing on the front.
(In the photo above, I am showing you the contrast fabric showing on the front.) Repeat for the opposite end. Press it down, leaving about 1/2 (maybe a little more) showing on the front.
At this point, you bag is looking something like this. It reminds me of the cat tunnel project in In Stitches by Amy Butler. (Don know what project I referring to? It is a tube, much like this, lined with faux fur for your cat to play in.)
Now, we make our elastic casing! Yay! Sew along about 1/2 from the edge of the contrast fabric. Sew all the way around, sewing back over your first stitches.
Sew all the way around again, this time sewing as close to the edge as you can. Also, you need to backstitch the ends and leave a small opening (preferably near the back center seam) to guide your elastic through.
Repeat for the other side! Now, you are almost done!
Grab your two pieces of elastic!
Here is how I thread my elastic. I put a large safety pin along the back end. It keeps the elastic from slipping all the way through. (Believe me, that is a pain!) I attach a small safety pin to the front end (the end I be pushing through the casing). Make sure your safety pins are firmly attached. It really sucks when a pin slips off because you put it too close to the edge.
Thread your elastic through the casing.
Sew your elastic together by overlapping it and sewing it with an stitch. (The awkward looking zig zag stitch on your machine that is more bolty than If you don have that stitch, a small zig zag will work. (You may have to reset the width of the zig zag so it fits on the elastic.)
Flip it right side out an you done! I know, you wondering why I didn finish closing off those elastic casings! Well, to be honest, it is a pain in the butt and it serves no real purpose. You can fight through it and close them up if you like, but I see no reason to. I backstitched the ends, so I made sure it was nice and secure. The elastic is so tight, You find great difficulty stretching it out to sew that little bitty hole closed. And I see no point in closing it. You can feel free to sell anything you make from any of my free designs.) As always, I just ask that you not take credit for the design and that you share the free tutorial with others! (No hoarding freeness!) Have fun!
I am the pastor’s wife. My husband, Adams, and I have five lovely children. We are currently pastoring a church replant, Faith Methodist Church. We homeschool those lovely children, as well. I enjoy sewing, hand embroidery, and other various crafts. I enjoy cooking and baking. I play several instruments, not just the radio! I am also addicted to books. I read them and review them. I also review other various items that are sent my way. In the event of the apocalypse, I’m your girl for wound care as a former operating room nurse.